ORCHA

Orcha is a small village 18 kilometers from Jhansi but during the time of the Mughals it  was the capital  of Bundela kings of the region.  It was much later that that Laxmibai and Jhansi became famous during the first war of Indian Independence. Orcha is a small village – divided into two by the main road. On one side is the more bustling part which includes the famous Raja Ram temple while the more stately palaces are on the other side. The river Betwa flows quietly past the palaces and forms the other axis.

Passing through the rustic scenary of 21^st  century Bundelkhand the sudden sight of these grand 17^th century palaces are truly astounding . The temple of Raja Ram means more to the local pilgrims and many sadhus add colour to this small place. The palace complex is remarkable with two huge palaces – the Raj Mahal and the Jehangir mahal. Today they are mute, but three hundred years ago the lives of the residents of these palaces were intimately intertwined with those of the mughals who lived not far away in Agra.

Today the walls are mostly bare but in a few rooms the frescos that have survived the tide of the times are breath-taking. Scenes from fights, from the royal courts as well as illustrations which depict scenes from history and the epics are now preserved and there are English, Italian, French and Spanish speaking guides that show tourists around. During the evening the palace complex comes alive with the sound and light show which captures the palace intrigues of the bygone days in many hues.

Around the main palaces are the lesser ruins, principal among them the house of the royal courtesan – Parveen Rai. Legend has it that the Mughal Emperor coveted her but with her ready wit and grace she won over the empire and her way back to Orcha. The pleasure garden the frescoed pavilion today is an undisturbed haven where we found a group of baya weavers busy with their nest making.

   

The river Betwa is an important character in this hideaway. Today it is a public bathing and washing place but earlier it was a spectator to history which is present today as the splendid chattri’s or memorials to the Bundela kings of Orcha. There was brief shower before we reached this place and the vultures spread out their wings to dry them creating new patterns on the domes and spires.
A short video on Orcha